As there is no special cake, Tunnock's fine wafer biscuits provided a satisfying alternative. |
We sailed for a happy two hours, tacking down the sound of Mull before the wind faded and went to the usual position behind a mountain to have a rest, or just ahead of the roller foresail. It was the first time we have had all three sails up (really), and it was lovely while it lasted.
Oban is itself a little daunting, but it has a major whisky distillery, so we stayed at the marina opposite and had a very nice dinner at the Bar'n'Grill. The next morning we bought two duck eggs and six hen's eggs. As we left the farm, which is on the same island Karrera as the marina, a posse of chickens tried to make it hard for us to leave as they wanted to be fed.
The rain had begun hours before and it continued to rain into the night. We didn't go to Oban on the very regular ferry.
Oban to Crinan.
The route through the Sound of Luing. Notice how it wobbles a bit, a bit like us when the echo sounder told us there was about 1m beneath us. The chart begged to differ, which made us happier. |
[We've done 13.5 knots over the ground in the Alderney Race, just to cap that one].
Crinan Canal.
Well, the book said it would be open until 9pm, but it wasn't, so we anchored off. The fog had lifted and the sea was quiet, although when I got up at 0300 for the usual, the next boat was still there with his anchor light. When I got up at 0800, the next boat was about a mile away out to sea. Still with his anchor light on.
Anyway, it rained. For twenty four hours. It rained all varieties of rain apart from rain carried by a gale. It rained all day, and in to the night, heavy, persistent and unrelenting. Left to our own devices, we managed eight locks, and finally after some assistance from passing staff of the canal, we retired, absolutely soaked to the skin.
Alison had attempted a mutiny at least twice, as she was in charge of winding the paddles. Also my welly boots were up to three inches in water, inside, that is, surrounding the socks, so I wouldn't allow a mutiny. Nevertheless, she was disheartened and at the same time quite exceptionally grumpy.
The driest thing was my vest. Only the left sleeve was wet. Everything else was wet. Wet. Humph. |
The cost of a licence for the Crinan is amazing, or breath taking, not quite sure which. The time spent waiting for something to happen is also amazing, but on Saturday we had a decent run down the hill from lock to lock because staff were around and a lot of boats were coming through so the locks were often open as we got to them. The locks are mostly antiques, and only the sea lock had hydraulics. All the rest were handraulic.
I said before, they need to speak to the Dutch about how to run it. Maybe. Don't tell anyone I said that.
Identify which boat is Astonel. The one on the left, or the one on the right? The prizewinner gets a Tunnock's biscuity thing. |
And a glass of wine. Cheers.
Ireland is just about in our sights, although we may try the Isle of Man. We don't feel we've done the whole place justice, but three stops stand out: Linnhe Marine, Tobermory, Drumbuighe, and Tarbert. That's four. And I quite enjoyed that freezing cold little harbour on the Caledonian Canal. Tarbert is the home of many rather senior citizens, which made one of us feel young again whilst eating a jam scone with a cup of tea. The marina is lovely, and the ablutions block is a wonder to the eyes: all new and sparkling and designer, although the Dyson hand drier is a bit crap.
And Dickies of Tarbert still exists.
This is the figurehead on a fairly Norse-looking vessel, obviously double ended and designed to be powered by oars. The middle picture is pretty obvious - I was wondering just how an old boat can appear to be so shiny at times, but actually it was the torrential rain that has cleaned everything.
And of course, the bottom picture is a view from the ruined castle. It's been a defensive position since around 600BC, apparently, but I think the locals have ignored it.
It hasn't defended anyone against midges. I've just squidged one on the computer screen.
This is the figurehead on a fairly Norse-looking vessel, obviously double ended and designed to be powered by oars. The middle picture is pretty obvious - I was wondering just how an old boat can appear to be so shiny at times, but actually it was the torrential rain that has cleaned everything.
And of course, the bottom picture is a view from the ruined castle. It's been a defensive position since around 600BC, apparently, but I think the locals have ignored it.
It hasn't defended anyone against midges. I've just squidged one on the computer screen.
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